Antique Furniture Moving Strategies for New Jersey Moves

Start with a record of each piece

Before anything gets wrapped, photograph each antique from every side. Take close-ups of old scratches, loose joints, veneer chips and past repairs. Measure the height, width and depth. The photos give you a clear before-and-after. The measurements tell you whether a tall armoire clears the stairwell, the doorway and the elevator.

For pieces of real value, get a written appraisal from an independent appraiser before the move. You will want it if you ever need to show what a piece was worth.

Know what basic valuation coverage does

Basic valuation coverage is included at no charge. On interstate moves it is released value: 60 cents per pound per article. That pays by weight, not by what a piece is worth. A light antique side chair of great value would get very little under it. Ask at the estimate what coverage fits your pieces, and list your high-value items in writing before the move.

Prepare each piece

• Empty every drawer and cabinet. Loose contents shift and crack thin drawer bottoms.
• Lift off glass shelves, marble tops and mirrors that come off. They travel separately.
• Take off knobs and pulls only if they come off easily. Bag and label them.
• Tie doors shut with soft cloth. Never put tape on the finish.
• Skip polish and oil in the days before the move. A fresh coat grabs dust and pad fibers.

Take apart only what was made to come apart

Bed rails, table leaves and legs held on with bolts can come off safely. Glued joints, old dowels and carved parts should stay as they are. Forcing an old joint does more harm than any staircase. Our crews take furniture apart and put it back together; show them which parts you know come off, and which ones stay.

Wrap, then pad, then crate if needed

Never put plastic stretch wrap directly on finished wood, lacquer or leather. Plastic traps moisture and heat, and on a warm day it can mark or soften an old finish. Wrap first with clean paper or soft cloth. Then cover the piece in thick moving pads, with extra padding on corners, legs and carved edges. Plastic wrap can go on the outside of the pads to hold them in place.

Some pieces need a crate: marble tops, glass-front cabinets, large mirrors, stained glass and delicate carved work. A custom wood crate holds the piece still and keeps weight off its weak points. Crating is one of our services; see packing services.

Clocks and pianos need their own steps

A tall case clock needs its pendulum and weights taken out and packed on their own before it moves. If you are not sure how, ask a clock specialist to prepare it. Pianos, from uprights to grands, are a separate job with their own plan. Read about our piano moving.

Heat, humidity and the ride

New Jersey summers are hot and humid, and heated homes in winter are dry. Wood swells and shrinks with those changes, and old glue joints feel it first. Keep antiques out of hot cars, attics and closed garages before and after the move. Plan the day so they go onto the truck near the end and come off first. At the new home, keep them away from radiators and air vents, and give each piece a day or two to settle before you tighten loose joints or force a sticky drawer.

Stairs, elevators and narrow doors

Older Hoboken and Jersey City brownstones have tight stair turns. Apartment elevators are not always tall enough for an armoire standing upright. Measure the elevator cab and door, and tell us about any piece that may need to travel on its side or come apart. For building rules, the COI and elevator windows, see high-rise moving.

Storing antiques between homes

If a piece goes into storage, keep it off the floor on boards or pallets, and cover it with breathable cloth, not plastic. Do not stack boxes on tabletops or chair seats. Leave space around each piece so nothing leans on it. We offer short- and long-term storage through affiliated, clean and secure self-storage facilities.